Have you seen the recent uniforms of the Korean soccer team? While the red uniform is the most famous home uniform, if you look at the away uniform, you will notice a unique pattern. The uniforms that the Korean national team will wear from 2024 to 2026 are inspired by 'mother-of-pearl,' known as 'najeonchilgi' in Korean.
Nike Korea
The fact that the most popular sport in Korea, soccer, has uniforms designed with a mother-of-pearl motif indicates the significant influence of mother-of-pearl in Korean culture. Today, let's briefly explore mother-of-pearl.
Nike Korea
First of all, mother-of-pearl has strong visual characteristics unique to it. Let’s first appreciate some mother-of-pearl products.
First of all, mother-of-pearl has strong visual characteristics unique to it. Let’s first appreciate some mother-of-pearl products.
Korea Heritage Service
Cheyul, Photo by 조선일보
전성규, 나전칠산수문탁자
Mother-of-pearl has been made historically in Korea, China, and Japan. The term 'najeonchilgi' in Korean comes from the chinese characters 나(螺), meaning 'conch,' and 전(鈿), meaning 'to decorate.' This translates to 'an art decorated with conch shell and lacquered.'
The production process is as follows: cut pieces of nacre are attached or inlaid on the surface of an object for decoration. Although it sounds simple, in practice, it involves multiple cycles of painting, applying, attaching the nacre, and painting again, finishing with a final polish. Even when done simply, it typically goes through about 20 stages.
Korea Heritage Service
The term 'najeon' is used commonly in Chinese, Japanese, and Korean. The technique of najeon was popular in China during the Tang Dynasty and likely spread to Korea and Japan from there. The earliest direct historical records in Korea date back to the Goryeo Dynasty, but it is assumed that it was introduced earlier.
The term 'najeon' is used commonly in Chinese, Japanese, and Korean. The technique of najeon was popular in China during the Tang Dynasty and likely spread to Korea and Japan from there. The earliest direct historical records in Korea date back to the Goryeo Dynasty, but it is assumed that it was introduced earlier.
Artifacts from the Unified Silla period show similar techniques, indicating that the technical foundation for mother-of-pearl existed during that time.
Lacquered Mirror with Gold and Silver Decoration
National Museum of Korea
National Museum of Korea
Stirrups Inlaid with Gold and Silver
National Museum of Korea
National Museum of Korea
Jar Inlaid with Gold and Silver
National Museum of Korea
Let’s look at some works from the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasty, where the quality of the pieces is so high that one might believe they were made in modern times.
Lacquered Sutra Box Inlaid with Mother-of-Pearl (Goryeo Dynasty)
National Museum of Korea
National Museum of Korea
Lacquered Tray Inlaid with Mother-of-Pearl (Joseon Dynasty)
National Museum of Korea
National Museum of Korea
Lacquered Clothing Box Inlaid with Mother-of-Pearl (Joseon Dynasty)
National Museum of Korea
National Museum of Korea
Red Lacquered Wardrobe Inlaid with Mother-of-Pearl (Joseon Dynasty)
National Museum of Korea
Despite its beauty and deep history, mother-of-pearl has experienced a decline in modern times. The production process is very complicated and lengthy, requiring manual craftsmanship. Moreover, the lacquer used is toxic and has a strong odor, making it an unpopular technique.
Due to its difficulty, large mother-of-pearl items, especially large wardrobes, can cost millions of won. To furnish a bedroom with a full set including a wardrobe, dressing table, and side tables can cost between 60-70 million won to nearly 100 million won(73,000 USD). It’s a fact that such expensive items are not easily sold to the general public.
The perception in Korea has also changed over time. At one point, mother-of-pearl was considered old-fashioned. Fake mother-of-pearl also appeared, causing the real thing to disappear.
연합뉴스
However, the tradition of mother-of-pearl has not been completely lost. Interest in traditional crafts has revived in modern times, and master craftsmen continue to make mother-of-pearl items. Furthermore, mother-of-pearl is gradually becoming known again and is being treated as a work of art, experiencing a revival. The Nike uniforms introduced at the beginning of this blog can be seen as the start of this perception shift.
Despite the challenges it faces—such as the labor-intensive production process and its historical decline in popularity—mother-of-pearl is experiencing a revival. Modern interest in traditional crafts has sparked a renewed admiration for the meticulous artistry involved in creating najeonchilgi. Mother-of-pearl is not only reclaiming its place in Korean culture but also gaining recognition as a timeless art form that bridges past and present. This revival signifies a deeper cultural appreciation and a promising future for this remarkable traditional craft.
BIROSO also sells products made with mother-of-pearl, our proud cultural heritage. These products are sourced directly from craftsmen. Click the link below to go directly to the product page and enjoy the beautiful cultural heritage of Korea from afar.
Mother-of-Pearl Diary
Natural Mother-of-Pearl Page Holder
Natural Mother-of-Pearl Page Holder - Queen of Angle
Mother-of-pearl Pendant Necklace_A Piece of Coral
Flower & Crane Najeon Chilgi(lacquerware) folding cabinet
Flowers & Birds Najeon Coaster
Pine & Crane Najeon Coaster
Mother-of-Pearl Wooden Incense Holder_Sea Bearing
Mother-of-pearl Pendant Necklace_illa 1
