In the hierarchical society of Joseon Dynasty, there existed a distinction in footwear between the aristocrats(yangban class) and the commoners. While commoners typically wore straw shoes known as Jipsin(짚신) which were shoes made out of rice straw, the Yangban class adorned themselves with leather shoes called "gatsin(갖신)."

우리문화신문

Many might envision rubber shoes paired with traditional Korean clothing (한복, hanbok), but in truth, rubber shoes were introduced during the Japanese colonial period and were not worn during the Joseon Dynasty.


매일경제

Today, let's delve into the "gatsin," the footwear worn by the aristocrats during the Joseon Dynasty. "Gatsin," essentially made of leather, was often soaked in oil during production, hence also referred to as 'Youhae(유혜, 油鞋)' which means oil shoes.

우리문화신문

"Gatsin" can be categorized into two types based on their form: 'Yee(이, 履)' which reveals the ankles and 'Hwa(화, 靴)' which extends up to the ankles. Originally, Hwa was the footwear of nomadic northern tribes, while Yee belonged to the southern tribes. Due to geographical reasons, Korea ended up adopting both styles - some historians say.



CJ ENM <Captivating the King, 2024>


한국학중앙연구원

Hwa, extending up to the ankles, was commonly worn by palace officials, while the Yee was the everyday footwear for the aristocrats. In Korean historical dramas, one can often observe officials wearing shoes covering their ankles, while commoners wear lower shoes. Also, the aristocracy sometimes wore Hwa while hunting, as the higher shaft was suitable for cold weather protection.

CJ ENM <Captivating the King, 2024>


CJ ENM <Captivating the King, 2024>

"Gatsin," thus, reflected the social hierarchy of the Joseon period. There were variations in the shoes worn by the royalty, officials, aristocrats, and commoners. Footwear was yet another aspect where strict class distinctions were observed in Joseon society. (In the picture above, you can see people of different classes wearing different shoes.)
 
Many "gatsin" boast elaborate designs. Typically, the inside of the shoes is lined with hanji (traditional Korean paper) and leather, while the exterior is wrapped in silk over leather. Various patterns adorn the toe of the shoes. Of course, there are cases where different materials are used. The shoes in the image below are called 'Not gatsin(놋갖신), made of leather and brass, reserved for high-ranking officials.

한국민족문화대백과사전

Some shoes are intentionally embellished for added beauty. The Danghye(당혜) shoes, for instance, were precious shoes prepared for upper-class women or the sons of aristocrats during their coming-of-age ceremony. These shoes were adorned with various designs on the toe, presenting exquisite craftsmanship.

국립고궁박물관

Thus, while "gatsin" may seem like simple footwear, it underwent a long history in Korea, adapting to the characteristics of Korean society. Today, "gatsin" remains a sought-after traditional Korean product, reflecting the country's rich history.

국립고궁박물관

Recently, Adidas has reinterpreted its bestselling Gazelle model as a Korean "gatsin," blending traditional Korean aesthetics with modern sophistication. One cannot help but admire Adidas' design prowess in preserving Korean tradition while presenting it in a contemporary fashion. These shoes are currently selling like hotcakes, so be sure to check them out on BIROSO.




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